San Francisco hotels serve up luxury accommodations and dining. . - Los Angeles Magazine

SAN FRANCISCO WAS FOUNDED ON HOSPITALITY and diversity during the 1849 Gold Rush when adventurers from around the world arrived seeking the comforts of home. To accommodate the influx of visitors and new money, world-class hotels with fine dining rooms were constructed by the early 1900s and international restaurants opened and dished out classics to new residents hungering for a taste of their homelands.

Fast forward to the new millenniums Internet explosion. Again the city's hotels and restaurants expanded to accommodate the sudden increase of fortune seekers, visitors and new dollars. Rooms underwent multimillion-dollar facelifts or were constructed from the ground up, hotel restaurants resurged as top destinations, and hotels became as diverse and accommodating as the city itself.

Whether your preference is historic, modern, boutique or grand, San Francisco hotels offer temporary homes to suit all tastes--and include state-of-the-art technology and renowned dining rooms showcasing the best of Northern California's fresh ingredients and famed wines.

Now the only dilemma for today's visitor is whether to hit the town and see all the sights or experience some of the best of San Francisco without ever leaving the hotel. Next time you're visiting the city step into any of the following hotels, among others, to dine and dream in the grandest of style.

CONTEMPORARY LUXURY

The Ritz-Carlton dings to its Nob Hill perch of perfection. The 1909 landmark is the city's only hotel boasting both Mobil Travel Guide's Five Stars and the American Automobile Association's Five Diamonds. Living up to its trademark Ritz regality the hotel pampers with old world opulence from the traditional European-style accommodations with Italian-marble bathrooms to afternoon tea, the Terrace Restaurant's Sunday jazz brunch and the Five-Diamond Dining Room. Gilded, richly upholstered, and sconce lit, the hotel's flagship restaurant is a white-glove wonderland for culinary classicists where chef Sylvain Portay orchestrates composed contemporary French cuisine. His sculptural lobster salad, beginning with a base of caviar cream topped with layers of the crustacean and a mix of lettuces, haricots verts and avocado, is crowned with a lobster head. Duck pot-au-feu takes comfort food to celestial heights with roasted and sliced duck breast alongside a crisped crouton topped with velvety foie gras-infused duck confit and a melange of baby carrots, leeks, and turnips, watermelon radish and haricots verts.

The newly built Four Seasons hotel and luxury residences have been straddling hip and haute since opening in late 2001. Its fifth floor lobby bar is home base for guests who sink into leather club chairs and sip cocktails while a pianist intermingles jazz standards with the likes of Pink Floyd and The Grateful Dead. Other prime pursuits include lounging in oversized rooms overlooking Yerba Buena Gardens or heading to the enormous adjoining Sports Club L.A. It's a two-block walk to Union Square and Moscone Center, but you won't have to even leave the building for elegantly French-influenced seasonal California cuisine. Within the airy, windowed room overlooking bustling Market Street former chef David Blessing set the quality standard with fare highlighting the bounty of Bay Area seasonal ingredients. His successor (yet to be determined as of this writing) is sure to follow in Blessing's farm-fresh footsteps.

FASHION FORWARD

Visitors in favor of the national trend toward playful, modern, hip hotels feel at home at the W San Francisco, which is a paintbrush stroke away from the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. The 423 rooms are designed to feel like home--or at least a friend's very color-coordinated and streamlined-chic home--with shades of brown and blue, window seats, and high-tech conveniences. Their motto 'Whatever you want, whenever you want it' includes access to the octagonal three-story lobby's board games and comfy couches and New York-swank XYZ restaurant and bi-level bar. The bright white XYZ restaurant dotted with colored portholes is as fresh and vibrant as chef Malachi Harland's hominy cakes with Ancho chili sauce, pico de gallo, and creme fraiche or his roasted maple leaf duck breast atop butternut squash, Brussel sprouts and bacon jus.

Unlike the W, public spaces are not a focus at the 198-room Hotel Palomar. But its one-two punch of luxury living and cutting-edge fine dining instantly captured the hearts of food and travel lovers when it opened in 1999. The Kimpton Group's highest-end local property is a sleek ensemble of leopard print, black-and-beige stripes, and dark wood-and-glass furnishings. Penthouse-slick glamour is the name of the game here, and its location--on the top five floors of a 1907 landmark office building above downtown's Market Street thoroughfare--heightens the air of exclusivity. Equally if not more indulgent than the hotel is its restaurant, The Fifth Floor. The clubby room of zebra striped rugs, red leather and velvet banquettes, and Frette linens is racy, but it can't catch chef Laurent Gras who redefines modern French dining with surprisingly original combinations of ingredients and techniques and creative presentations. Classics include a fanned avocado dome over crabmeat seasoned jalapeno and basil and Niman Ranch pork belly slowly poached, roasted, and enriched with black truffles and truffle jus.

Another property waxing modern whimsical is Hotel Monaco San Francisco, a world travel-inspired fantasy, also from the ever-expanding Kimpton Group. Two blocks off Union Square, the renovated 1910 Beaux-Arts building has smaller rooms with signature canopy beds and boldly striped walls, while public spaces are playfully decorated with heavenly frescoes and adventure-related accents such as an oversized travel trunk check-in counter. Most architecturally awe-inspiring is the adjoining French-California brasserie, the Grand Cafe. A restored turn-of-the-century ballroom with 30-foot ceilings, towering bunny sculptures, and deco and nouveau grandeur, the restaurant is a pre-theater favorite with its own ovation-worthy drama. Chef Paul Arenstam's opulent menu featuring his irresistible flaky and rich porcini mushroom tart with frothy black truffle sabayon and melt-in-your-mouth sauteed skate over braised cabbage, bacon, and brown butter caper sauce heightens the performance. The more casual front room, the Petite Cafe is downtown's top spot for pre-theater snacks and cocktails.

Across the street from the Monaco is Ian Schrager's contribution to San Francisco's hip hotel collection, Clift. Once known as The Clift, one of the city's time-honored traditional hotels, Schrager unveiled a Philippe Starck-driven remodel in 2001, transforming it into the city's most trendy place to crash. Like most historic properties the monochrome pale purple and orange rooms can be small. But the style factor is larger than life--from colored mirror accents to the gorgeous historic wood-paneled Redwood Room, one of the sexiest bars in the city. Adjoining the bar is Asia de Cuba. Known for its celebrity clientele and Starck's etched glass cocktail tables and red velvet-draped, 25-foot-high, wood-paneled walls, the bi-coastal restaurant lures glamour diners into high-backed crescent-shaped booths to eat and be seen. Prices are among the city's steepest, but entertainment value is included and the large Asian-Cuban dishes are meant to be shared. Signature items include Asian calamari salad tossed with hearts of palm, cashew, banana, chicory and sesame orange dressing and honey-glazed pot roast over bok choy with fried plantains, and enoki mushrooms.

OLD WORLD ELEGANCE

While many downtown hotels are receiving modernizing facelifts, The Palace Hotel celebrates its historic heritage. Built in 1875 and rebuilt after the 1906 quake, its jaw-dropping centerpiece is the Garden Court, a 1909 dining spectacle and traditional Sunday buffet brunch spot with a double row of massive Italian-marble Ionic columns, 10 huge chandeliers, and an 80,000-pane stained-glass ceiling that towers 55 feet above the sparkling wine, shrimp and freshly shucked oysters, and eggs Benedict. Art lovers settle into the The Pied Piper Bar to admire the giant Maxfield Parrish mural before retreating to one of 552 rooms. Updated in 2002 they still echo old world tradition with mahogany poster beds, floral fabrics and marble vanities.

A prelude to the historic hotel within, famed doorman Tom Sweeney announces the entrance to Union Square's Sir Francis Drake in his conspicuous Beefeater suit. Inside, the 21-story hotel built in 1928 is a lighthearted ode to old world opulence with grand staircases and swirls of red and gold. The 417 rooms have advanced since the days when their modern wonders included ice water on tap and radios in every guest room. Today it's a contemporary-cosmopolitan collage of sage and cream stripes, red and gold. Adjoining the hotel is Scala's Bistro, a festive, bustling and stylish spot for Italian fare. Conceptualized by and named after Donna Scala of Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa Valley and now presided over by chef Staffan Terje, the Italian- and French-inspired restaurant covers all cravings from thick, juicy burgers and paper-thin filet mignon carpaccio with arugula, capers, lemon and parmesan shavings to perfectly crisp and moist seared salmon filet resting on buttermilk mashed potatoes with a zesty tomato, white wine and chive sauce. Atop the hotel on the 21st floor Harry Dentoffs Starlight Room is the spot to cut the rug backed by live swing bands and panoramic city views.

BOUTIQUE CHARM

If intimate environs and world-class refinement are on the itinerary, book a room at Campton Place Hotel. The boutique jewel embedded in the heart of Union Square coddles visitors in its 110 Italian-modern rooms swathed in sand and sage hues, pear wood and limestone. Although hundreds of shops beckon outside, one of the greatest reasons to hibernate is the Restaurant, which has a longstanding reputation for rearing some of the city's finest chefs. French chef Laurent Manrique took tableside service to new heights when the dining room reopened in 2002 after a glamorous facelift. But don't count on scooting into one of the gold crashed-velvet booths for his cart-served foie gras four ways. As of May 2003 Swiss chef Daniele Humm, a 27-year-old Michelin-star-rated newcomer, steps in for Manrique who hopped over to celebrated seafood hot spot Aqua. Until Humm reworks the menu, however, the kitchen is still command over crayfish, breast of quail, and cinnamon cap mushrooms in puff pastry and Colorado lamb saddle and shank with sweet peppers and cumin lamb jus.

One block west off of Union Square the Prescott Hotel guests slip past the discreet lobby and head to guest rooms that buck trends, florals and lace for rooms more soothingly homey style in dark greens, burgundy and cherry wood. If the hotel is the hiding place, its adjoining restaurant Postrio is the coming out party. Wolfgang Puck's only San Francisco endeavor has been a special occasion favorite for over a decade. Guests make a dramatic descent into the bright, bi-level dining room and indulge in brothers Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal's house smoked salmon on buckwheat blini topped with dill creme fraiche and caviar or bacon wrapped Wolfe Ranch quail with Manila clams, creamer potatoes and garlic lemon glaze. Casual diners know to slip into the crowded bar for gourmet pizzas and pre-theater socializing.

More moderately priced and European in style is the Hotel Vintage Court, which is two blocks north of Union Square and right on top of one of the city's best French restaurants. Oenophiles will appreciate that the 1066 rooms are named after wineries and adorned with modern country decor of earth tones, greens and wrought iron, not to mention the cozy lobby where complimentary California wines are enjoyed each evening on couches fronting a blazing fire. The hotel may inspire one to sink into a chair and stay awhile, but the magic happening in the adjoining legendary Masa's restaurant is more than enough reason to get off the couch. Behind the entrance's backlit white curtains, a dim modern-minimalist dining room keeps the attention focused on chef Ron Siegel's delicate checkerboard of hamachi carpaccio with shiso and radish salad, poppy seed mile, and Meyer lemon vinaigrette or full-flavored bacon-wrapped black cod with razor dams, baby leeks, toasted garlic and gigli pasta.

For more information on San Francisco hotels and special offers visit the San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau's web site at www.sfvisitor.org

THE DINING ROOM AT THE RITZ-CARLTON, SAN FRANCISCO

The Ritz-Carlton's Dining Room embodies classic fine dining with opulent surroundings, white-glove service, and Chef Sylvain Portay's sophisticated French-inspired cuisine. Portay simplifies four-star dining for the home chef with his Roasted Rack of Lamb, which sommelier Stephane Lacroix suggests pairing with a rich, hearty full-bodied red wine such as Trinchero Mario's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999. Its rich, smooth and complex character complements the reserved decadence of the lamb and its jus, and the caramelized ribs accentuate the wine's velvety dark fruit flavors and enliven the glaze's roasted bell pepper flavors.

Roasted Rack of Lamb with Caramelized Ribs, Potato Boulangere, Tomato Confit, Scallion and Fava Beans

Chef Sylvain Portay

 2 rack of lamb, French cut, with trimmings 1/2 cup plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil 3 unpeeled garlic cloves 2 cups veal stock   (available frozen at gourmet grocers) 2 red bell peppers 2 large yellow onions 1 Tbsp. tomato ketchup 1 Tsp. honey salt and pepper 1 strip of bacon 2 large Yukon gold potatoes 4 scallions 2 cups fava beans 2 large tomatoes 

Preheat the oven to 450[degrees]F. Trim the fat off the lamb and reserve. Cover each of the meatless lamb rib bones with tin foil and generously season the meat with salt and pepper

In a large saute pan heat 1 tablespoon olive oil until it is almost smoking. Add the garlic and lamb and roast in the oven for 6 minutes. Turn the ribs over and roast another 6 minutes.

Remove from the oven, reserve the ribs, add lamb trimmings and veal stock to the pan, and simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes. Reserve the lamb jus.

Prepare rib glaze: Halve the bell peppers, remove seeds and core, and broil skin-side up until skins begin to blacken. Transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for a few minutes. Peel off the skins, rinse the peppers, and reserve. Slice one onion into thin ringlets. In a medium saute pan heat 1/2 cup olive oil over moderate heat. Add the onions and cook until transparent, about 20 minutes. Strain and puree the onion with the bell pepper, then reduce the puree slowly in a nonstick pan to 1 cup. The puree should have a marmalade-like consistency. Mix in the ketchup, honey, and salt and pepper to taste. Reserve.

Prepare the vegetables: Peel potatoes, halve them, and cut them into solid cylindrical shapes. Cut bacon and remaining onion into 1-inch pieces. Cook in a heated saute pan over moderate heat. Add potatoes and lamb jus and braise until potatoes are cooked, add the scallion and braise during the last few minutes. Blanch and peel fava beans. Peel, seed and quarter tomatoes.

Generously coat the ribs with glaze and roast for 6 minutes at 400[degrees]F.

Serve: Reheat potatoes and other vegetables in lamb jus. Slice roasted lamb, remove tin foil from the bones, and serve with lamb jus and vegetables. SERVES 4.

SEASONS RESTAURANT, FOUR SEASONS SAN FRANCISCO

Seasons Restaurant highlights the Bay Area's abundant fresh seasonal bounty. An oasis of refinement, the dining room exudes casual elegance befitting chef David Blessing's cuisine, which highlights natural flavors of quality ingredients. Exemplifying his unadulterated style is his refreshing and bountiful Seared King Salmon and Warm Spring Salad, which Sommelier Rom Toulon pairs with a rich, full-bodied white such as Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2001. Balanced and clean, the wine has enough acidity to complement the dish's greens and vinaigrette and a roundness and fullness that mirror the fish's opulent character.

Seared King Salmon and Warm Spring Salad with Peas, Carrots, Asparagus, Fingerling Potatoes and Chardonnay Vinaigrette

Executive Chef David Blessing

 2 6-oz. salmon filets, with skin 4 quartered fingerling potatoes 1/2 cup snap peas 3 asparagus spears, halved lengthwise 3 each peeled baby carrots 1 Tbs. sugar I cup champagne vinegar 1 Tbs. mustard seeds 1 bay leaf 6 whole white peppercorns 1 garlic clove 1 whole clove 1 small red onion, peeled and sliced into   1/4' thick rings, about 1/2 cup 1 cup Chardonnay,   reduced to 1/3 cup and cooled 1 oz. fresh lemon juice 1 shallot, minced 1/2 Tbs. Dijon mustard 1/2 Tbs.sugar 1-1/6 cup excellent quality extra virgin olive oil 4 cups mesclun greens mix 6 each cherry tomatoes, halved salt and pepper to taste 

Boil potatoes in salted water until tender when pierced with toothpick, drain, cool, quarter and reserve. Blanch the peas, carrots and asparagus separately in salted boiling water until each is tender (approximately 1 1/2 minutes each). Shock the vegetables in ice water, drain and reserve.

Pickle the onions: Bring sugar, champagne vinegar, mustard seeds, bay leaf, peppercorns, garlic, and clove to a boil in a small pot. Simmer for five minutes and strain. Discard solids and pour over onions into a shallow bowl. Cover and let cool to room temperature.

Make Chardonnay Vinaigrette: In a non-reactive bowl combine Chardonnay reduction, lemon juice, shallots, mustard, sugar, and 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil. Reserve.

Season salmon evenly on both sides with salt and pepper. In a large saute pan, heat 1/4 cup olive oil over high heat until almost smoking. Place fish skin side down in pan and reduce heat to medium. Continue searing fish slowly until skin becomes crisp (approximately 2 minutes). Turn fish over and put pan and fish together in oven at 325[degrees]F. Bake approximately 4 minutes for medium rare to medium.

Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in saute pan until almost smoking. Place potatoes in the pan, cut-side down. Reduce heat to medium and sear until golden brown on all sides. Add carrots, peas, asparagus and onions to pan and continue to saute until all vegetables are thoroughly heated through (approximately 2 minutes), and season as desired. Remove pan from heat, add 1/2 cup vinaigrette to the vegetable mixture and toss to coat evenly. Place entire mixture in a medium bowl, add the mesclun greens and split tomatoes. Toss and season as desired. Split mixture evenly and arrange salad in center of two plates. Place salmon filet on top. Drizzle additional vinaigrette around the plate and serve. SERVES 2.

XYZ, W SAN FRANCISCO

XYZ's white-on-white design and trademark colored portholes are as fresh and contemporary as Chef Malachi Harland's modern American cuisine. Malachi, who was hailed as one of the San Francisco Chronicle's Rising Star Chefs in 2003, accents his clean and seasonally-driven cooking style with Roasted Beef Tenderloin, which Wine Director Michael Garcia recommends pairing with an intense, yet elegantly balanced red wine such as Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2000. The Cabernet sauce creates a natural symmetry between the dish and wine. The pure flavors of the tenderloin and vegetables illuminate the Cabernet's deep cassis character and refined tannins, while mushrooms and a slight charring of the meat echo the wine's toasty notes.

Roasted Beef Tenderloin, potato puree, Chanterelle Mushrooms and Cabernet Sauce

Chef Malachi Harland

 4 7-oz. cuts of beef tenderloin 1/2 cup pure olive oil 3 oz. cleaned and sliced chanterelle   mushrooms (or your favorite mushrooms) salt, and freshly cracked pepper to taste 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 cup sliced shallots 5 whole black peppercorns 1/2 bay leaf 3 parsley sprigs 2 cups good quality Cabernet Sauvignon 2 cups veal stock   (available frozen at gourmet grocers) 2 lbs. russet potatoes, peeled 2-1/2 cups heavy cream 4 Tbs. softened butter white pepper to taste 8 baby carrots 8 green beans 4 baby turnips 1 Tsp.finely chopped chervil or chives 

Roast the mushrooms: Preheat the oven to 350[degrees]F. In a medium saute pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add the mushrooms, season lightly with salt and pepper, add the garlic and thyme and toss in the pan to coat. Put the pan of mushrooms in the oven for 10 minutes. Reserve.

Make the Cabernet sauce: In a medium saute pan over medium heat, heat 1/3 cup olive oil and saute shallots, peppercorns, bay leaf, and parsley sprigs until shallots are translucent. Add red wine and reduce until nearly dry but not caramelized, about 20 minutes. Add veal stock and reduce to sauce consistency, about 10 minutes. Strain and reserve.

Puree the potatoes: In a large pot of boiling water cook the potatoes until they're soft in the center. Remove potatoes from water, let steam dry, and run them through a fine-mesh food mill or mash them by hand. Return to a saucepan and fold in cream, butter, and salt and white pepper to taste. Reserve.

Season beef tenderloin liberally with salt and black pepper. In an oven-safe pan saute 1/4 cup olive oil over medium-high heat and brown each side of the meat. Place the pan in the oven and cook for approximately 6 to 8 minutes or until desired temperature. Remove from the oven and set steak aside in warm place to rest.

Blanch the vegetables: Quarter the turnips. Cook the carrots, green beans, and turnips in a pot of salted boiling water for 3 minutes. Remove, cool immediately in an ice bath, and pat dry. Cut the carrots in half lengthwise and the green beans in half widthwise.

In a large saute pan, combine and warm the Cabernet sauce, mushrooms and vegetables. Adjust seasoning.

Beats, eats and other treats await in San Francisco.(listing of popular attractions in San Francisco) - Business Insurance

When it comes to attractions, San Francisco has it all -- quality, quantity and remarkable variety.

Visitors to the city can view its skyline and shoreline by taking an inexpensive ferry ride, gain some cultural awareness at one of its many art and science museums, rent a bicycle and pedal through a huge expanse of park greenery, or check out the cutting edge of high-tech entertainment.

Just about anything is available in San Francisco; listed below are a few possibilities. Some, such as Golden Gate Park, have pulled in visitors for decades; others, such as the Metreon, are recent but have already established themselves as crowd pleasers.

Metreon

San Francisco's four-story, 350,000 square-foot Sony entertainment center is a video game fanatic's dream come true.

Located in the heart of the city's Yerba Buena Gardens, at the corner of Fourth and Mission streets, the nearly 1-year-old Metreon offers interactive, family-friendly attractions as well as shops, restaurants, movie theaters and San Francisco's first Sony-IMAX theater.

The main attraction at Metreon is its Airtight Garage, where the 21st century meets kid's play.

This upscale arcade, located on the second floor, offers virtual reality games that can be found only at Metreon, as well as myriad video games certain to delight both kids and adults.

It also offers a full bar, which may or may not enhance one's game playing abilities.

Bowling enthusiasts will not want to miss HyperBowl, the ultimate virtual bowling experience. In the game, the ball's path is represented on a large screen projecting one of four worlds -- San Francisco in 2099, a Roman garden, a traditional bowling alley, and an ancient ship on a windy day. In the San Francisco scenario, for example, a player must steer the ball up and down the streets of the city, dodging cable cars and other obstacles in an attempt to hit the pins at the end.

HyperBowl costs $6 to play. All the other games are $2.50. Game cards must be purchased at the front of the arcade.

If you're planning to spend an evening at Airtight Garage, consider going on Wednesday night, from 6 p.m. until 10 p.m. During that time, unlimited game play is $12, and drinks are only $2. Wednesday nights are open to those 21 and older; Sunday through Thursday, the Airtight Garage is open to all ages, from 6 p.m. until 10 p.m., with unlimited game play for only $10.

Also on the second floor is 'The Way Things Work -- in Mammoth 3-D,' a three-screen, three-dimensional presentation that explains the operating principles of machinery featured in David Macaulay's book 'The Way Things Work.' There is a $2.50 charge for this attraction.

On the fourth floor, you'll find an interactive display of Maurice Sendak's popular children's book 'Where the Wild Things Are.' The book, with its monsters, bubbling cauldrons and hall of mirrors, comes to life in a hands-on, interactive play space. For $6, you can tour the display, but be prepared for crowds of children. Enthusiasts of the book might also want to spend some time in the shop located in front of the attraction -- stuffed replicas of some of the monsters are hard to resist. If you're hungry, the In the Night Kitchen restaurant is also nearby. The family-friendly classic American diner is inspired by Mr. Sendak's book of the same name.

Seven other restaurants are located throughout Metreon, and they might prove good places to eat lunch during the Risk & Insurance Management Society Inc. conference, given its proximity to the Moscone Center. Among the restaurants are the Firewood Cafe, which offers big salads and gourmet pizza and pasta; and Sanraku, which serves fresh sushi, teriyaki and tempura. Both restaurants are on the ground floor.

Jillian's South of Market restaurant, also on the ground floor, offers white-tablecloth dining, sports on a wall of televisions at the bar, and a back room full of pool tables.

From 10 p.m. until 2 a.m. on Wednesday through Saturday, Jillian's dining area turns into a dance club. Wednesday night is devoted to salsa.

Intermixed among the entertainment and restaurants are such stores as Sony Style; Discovery Channel Store, offering interactive educational exhibits and products; PlayStation store, where Sony PlayStation enthusiasts can play the latest titles at game kiosks; and MicrosoftSF, where shoppers can sample the latest computer software, hardware and other related products.

If you've ever wanted a picture of yourself made into a holographic image for a key chain or card, there's even a vendor offering that service on the second floor.

Metreon also houses 15 movie theaters and a Sony-IMAX theater. For shows and show times or for more information about Metreon's other attractions, call 1-800-638-7366.

Metreon itself is open daily from 10 a.m. until 8 p.m., but many of the restaurants and attractions remain open later.

Alcatraz

Anyone with a free morning or afternoon should consider a trip to Alcatraz Island. A short ferry ride out from Pier 41 in Fisherman's Wharf, Alcatraz will bring to life what many have seen only in movies and on television.

Whether you have a whole afternoon or only a few hours, there are several ways to tour Alcatraz that will accommodate your schedule and still give you a feel for what it was like on the island during its 29-year history as a federal penitentiary. In addition to a 15-minute introductory film, you can take a 30-minute audio tour of the cell house, with narration provided by former inmates and guards. There also are several free park-ranger guided tours that offer more detail about the prison and the lives of its inmates. For those wishing to tour Alcatraz on their own, there are explanatory brochures that will help.

Whatever route you take, you will have the opportunity to stand in the five-by-nine-foot claustrophobic cells in which inmates spent up to 23 hours a day; to tour the cafeteria; to stand in one of the solitary-confinement cells found in the infamous D Block; and to look upon the recreation yard, where such notable inmates as Al Capone once stood. You also can peer into the cell of Robert Shroud, the 'Birdman of Alcatraz.'

Also on display are the actual cells of John and Clarence Anglin and Frank Morris. In June 1962, the three escaped from Alcatraz by digging with spoons around the ventilation ducts in their cells, gaining access to the utility corridor and, eventually, the roof. While cells No. 150, 152 and 138 are genuine, the holes have been re-dug and the displayed dummy heads that were used to fool the guards in the escape are replicas. The inmates, whose escape was chronicled in the Clint Eastwood movie 'Escape from Alcatraz,' were never found. On an interesting note, cell No. 113, down the corridor known as 'Broadway,' served as Mr. Eastwood's cell in the movie.

There were 14 attempted escapes from Alcatraz during its 29 years as a federal penitentiary, but it was the 1962 escape -- as well as escalating operational costs -- that led then-U.S. Attorney General Robert F. Kennedy to close the facility in 1963.

Alcatraz was not always a federal penitentiary. Initially, the island had been used as a small military fortification, built in 1853, to protect the port from Confederate raids.

In 1854, the first lighthouse on the Pacific Coast was constructed on Alcatraz. It still operates on the island today.

By the time the Civil War broke out, Alcatraz's defenses were obsolete, and, in 1907, the island was decommissioned as a fortification. In

the meantime, starting in the mid-1800s, Alcatraz was used to incarcerate convicted soldiers, citizens accused of treason and the crew of a Confederate ship. The army also used Alcatraz to imprison Hopi, Apache and Modoc Indians captured during the various Indian wars of the mid-to-late 1800s and to hold military convicts during the Spanish-American War in 1898. In 1934, Alcatraz reopened as a federal penitentiary.

A complete tour of Alcatraz covers every aspect of life on the island, from its beginnings before the Civil War, to the small community where prison guards lived with their families, to the Native American occupation in the late 1960s.

The Red & White Fleet, which departs from Pier 41, provides ferry service to and from the island every half-hour, starting at 9:30 a.m. Tickets, which are $8.75 without an audio tour and $12.25 with the audio tour, must be purchased in advance. For information, call 415-705-5555.

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

Located around the corner from the Moscone Center on Third Street, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art offers a beautiful and convenient place to take a break from the conference.

SFMOMA, which is San Francisco's newest major museum, is one of the largest single buildings dedicated to modern art in the country.

The $63 million 5-year-old building, designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, is a beautiful piece of art both inside and out. It consists of four stories of gallery space and one floor devoted to services and amenities.

Admissions, restrooms, the museum store and audio tour information are located on the ground floor, as is the Caffe Museo, which is an excellent place to get breakfast, lunch or a cup of coffee. Caffe Museo has outdoor seating along the front of the museum and offers reasonably priced salads, pizza, pasta and soup, in addition to assorted scones, muffins and croissants. Coffee, juice, beer and wine also are sold.

Caffe Museo is open every day but Wednesday. Normal hours are from 10 a.m until 6 p.m.; on Thursday, though, Caffe Museo remains open until 9 p.m.

The second floor of the museum houses art from its permanent collection in an ongoing exhibit titled 'Matisse and Beyond: A Century of Modernism.' The impressive collection of modern art includes original paintings and sculptures by such artists as Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro, Salvador Dali, Georgia O'Keefe, Jackson Pollock, Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol.

An audio tour that guides you through the museum's permanent collection while exploring the relationship between modern music and modern art is available for $3.

The second floor also houses other special exhibits. During RIMS, you can check out 'Structure and Surface: Contemporary Japanese Textiles;' 'Paul Klee: Recent Acquisitions of the Djerassi Collection' and 'Selections from the Permanent Collection of Architecture and Design: Adams Morioka.'

The third floor houses a collection of photography exhibits. In addition to an exhibit from SFMOMA's permanent photography collection -- 'Picturing Modernity' -- work by photographers William Gedney and Germaine Krull will be exhibited during the RIMS conference.

The fourth and fifth floors currently house an exhibit showcasing four decades of work by the artist Sol LeWitt. The exhibit will also be available during the conference.

The museum, located at 151 Third St. between Mission and Howard streets, is open every day except Wednesday. Hours are 11 a.m. until 6 p.m. On Thursday, the museum is open until 9 p.m., and tickets are available at half-price beginning at 6 p.m. Regular admission is $9, although entrance to the museum is free the first Tuesday of every month.

Sausalito

Taking the ferry boat ride from San Francisco is part of the fun in visiting Sausalito, a quaint waterfront town that features art galleries, sailboat slips and restaurants.

Ferries that run daily are operated both by the Golden Gate Ferry & Transit Service and by the Blue & Gold Fleet. One Golden Gate ferry departs from the Ferry Building, at the bottom of Market Street.

The snack and beverage bars to be found on Golden Gate's boats have a very utilitarian decor and definitely can't be counted on for anything approaching gourmet luncheon fare. But the bars do stock basic alcoholic refreshments and, by some estimates, the cruise between San Francisco and Sausalito provides just the right amount of time to enjoy a couple of martinis.

By the clock, the trip takes about 30 minutes.

As the ferry pulls away from San Francisco, travelers are treated to an extraordinary panoramic view of the city's skyline and geography. In inclement weather, passengers can sit inside, but if the day is sunny, they can soak up the rays outside while taking in views of Alcatraz Island, the Golden Gate Bridge and the beautiful shoreline of Marin County.

Golden Gate ferry rides are $4.80 each way. Blue & Gold Fleet ferries depart from Pier 41 in Fisherman's Wharf, and the adult fare is $6 each way. For schedules, contact Golden Gate Ferries at 415-923-2000 and Blue & Gold Fleet at 415-773-1188.

Driving to Sausalito takes visitors north on Highway 1/101 and across the Golden Gate Bridge. It's about a 45-minute trip from central San Francisco during non-rush hour traffic. But the parking in Sausalito can be problematic, so many locals prefer to load their bicycles on to the ferry.

Sausalito is known for its scenic bicycle routes, and bikes can be rented either upon arrival or near Fisherman's Wharf before leaving San Francisco.

Once in this Mediterranean-style town, stroll along Bridgeway Boulevard, Sausalito's main street, located just off the ferry stop. Take in Bridgeway's art galleries, shops and rustic houses. Or sit in one of the restaurants that offer breathtaking views of the bay and San Francisco.

For dinner, Ondine, located at 558 Bridgeway Blvd., is one of the better-known restaurants in the area, although it is considered pricey. Ondine also offers a Sunday brunch. For lunch, Margaritaville, also located on Bridgeway, offers large portions of Mexican food served on its waterfront patio. Or, for a drink, try the No Name bar, also on Bridgeway. Some say the bar maintains one of Sausalito's last ties to its bohemian past.

That bohemian spirit developed after World War II, when a shipyard employing thousands of workers closed its doors. Squatters then salvaged scrap materials from barges and decaying ships and built houseboats. Today, the houseboats still bob out in the harbor, providing shelter for area artists; some of those homes have themselves been turned into works of art.

To see the houseboats, head north from the ferry landing on Bridgeway to Gates 5 and 6. To take in more local living and the city's hillside housing stock, climb the steep stairways on the west side of Bridgeway.

Also north up Bridgeway is the Bay Model, a miniature, two-acre version of the area's 350 square miles of ocean and rivers. The model features flowing ocean tides and rivers and is used to study the area's marine life and water conservation efforts.

Still another alternative is to simply sit and relax amid the palm trees in the pretty square just off the ferry landing.

Bear in mind that Sausalito is small, and its sights can easily be seen in half a day or a few hours. Furthermore, the ferries serve as transportation for area workers, so it might be best to travel when local commuters are less likely to be crowding the ships.

If you particularly enjoy the ferry ride, you might consider some of the other destinations offered by both ferry services. If driving, try to visit additional nearby destinations, such as the Muir Woods National Monument, with its beautiful redwood trees.

California Palace of the Legion of Honor

In a city known as an art center and a bastion of museums and galleries, the California Palace of the Legion of Honor stands out.

The 1920s French neoclassic building that houses the museum stands out for its beauty, for the art exhibits displayed there and for its location. The palace, which is perched atop Lincoln Park, at the city's far west end, offers stunning views of San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge.

Architect George Applegarth designed the building as a replica of Paris' 18th-century Palais de la Legion d'Honneur. The Parisian palace formerly served as a royal residence and is considered a landmark of the Left Bank.

San Francisco's palace is currently home to thousands of pieces of ancient and European art. The palace's collection includes an Assyrian wall relief; French furniture, ceramics and antiques; Dutch and Flemish paintings from the 18th century; and 18th-century English paintings.

The museum was a gift to San Francisco from Alma de Bretteville Spreckels, the whose family was prominent in the sugar industry. She befriended the French sculptor Auguste Rodin, who helped her select works for her museum. The palace's collection of Rodin's works now includes an early cast of 'The Thinker.'

Through May 14, the palace will host 53 works created from 1908 to 1963 by Georgia O'Keefe. 'The Poetry of Things' exhibit includes many of O'Keefe's better-known works, as well of some that might not be as familiar to admirers.

The exhibit provides plenty of commentary on the objects O'Keefe chose to paint, such as the bones, shells and flowers prominent in many of her colorful works. The exhibit includes photographs taken by contemporaries of O'Keefe, as well as photographs by O'Keefe's husband, famed photographer Alfred Steiglitz.

For those seeking refreshments, the museum's cafe is enjoyable for its outdoor seating overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Also located on the exterior of the museum is a moving Holocaust memorial.

The palace is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. General admission is $10. More information is available by calling 415-863-3330.

Those who have additional time after visiting the museum might want to see how some of San Francisco's wealthiest residents live. To do so, visit nearby Sea Cliff, an ocean bluff community of opulent homes. Robin Williams and other celebrities call the area home.

Golden Gate Park

Golden Gate Park, stretching nearly from the middle of San Francisco to the Pacific Ocean, has more to offer than most tourists will ever have time to explore.

But those who do visit can wander through museums, relax in a Japanese tea garden or participate in physical activities such as bicycling or roller-blading. The park is a 1,017-acre expanse of greenery that offers tourists and locals an escape from the surrounding urban environment. Even fly fishing and hikes along secluded nature trails are possible in the park.

Some of the most-visited sites are located at the park's eastern end, near the 10th Avenue entrance, on the Fulton Street side. One attraction in that area is the H.E. de Young Museum. The museum features American art from Colonial times to the mid-20th century, and it also has a collection of objects from around the world, such as African carvings and European tapestries. Admission for adults is $7. For more information, call 415-863-3330.

Adjacent to the de Young is the Asian Art Museum, which boasts a jade jewelry and craft collection and art from Tibet, Japan, the Middle East and elsewhere. The price of admission to the de Young includes entry to the Asian Art Museum.

The California Academy of Sciences is also in the immediate vicinity. It includes the Morrison Planetarium, the Steinhart Aquarium and the Natural History Museum, all under one roof. One large hall houses an exhibit on the history of life on Earth as well as one on geological plate tectonics and earthquakes. Visitors can stand on an earthquake simulator that vibrates with the intensity of the 1906 temblor that struck the city. That quake, later estimated to be of magnitude 7.9, and the subsequent fire, killed about 700 residents. Admission for adults is $8.50. The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, call 415-750-7145.

Behind the Academy of Sciences sits the Garden of Shakespeare's Flowers, containing about 150 specimens.

Also nearby is the Japanese Tea Garden. Ponds, paths, sculptures, native Japanese plants and cherry trees occupy the five-acre site. Adjacent to that is the 70-acre Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens, featuring thousands of plant species. Admission to the tea garden is $3.50 for adults; admission to the arboretum is free.

But Golden Gate Park has even more than museums and greenery.

Name just about any sport or physical activity, and the park probably has facilities for it. Miles of tree-lined streets and trails wind through the park, and skates and bikes can be rented at shops along nearby streets. On Sundays, one of the park's main thoroughfares, John F. Kennedy Drive, is closed to cars, giving use of the pavement over to bicyclists, skaters, runners and walkers.

Near JFK Drive and 36th Avenue stands a wood cabin that was built during the federal Works Project Administration era. It is now home to The Golden Gate Angling & Casting Club, whose members perfect their art in the fly casting pools behind the cabin. Club members love to give impromptu casting lessons; an interested visitor can leave a drivers license as a deposit for the use a rod.

The park's Sunbather Meadow attracts ultimate frisbee enthusiasts of all levels, as well as crowds that watch. Other sports facilities include a nine-hole public golf course, bridle paths, an archery field and Stow Lake, where rowboats can be rented.

At the far west end, where the park runs into the Pacific Ocean, the hungry and thirsty can stop in at Beach Chalet Brewery. The brew pub overlooks the beach and the crashing waves. The restaurant occupies the top half of a two-story building constructed in the 1920s. The first floor houses a visitor center and gorgeous tile mosaics depicting life in San Francisco.

Other nearby eating establishments can be found along the streets leading up to the Lincoln Avenue side of Golden Gate Park.

Classes clashing San Francisco quarter feels squeeze - The Boston Globe (Boston, MA)

SAN FRANCISCO -- One morning not long ago, aspiring musician JasonBowman awoke to discover he was yuppie scum.

The words were spray-painted right there on the outside of theloft building where he lives and works in San Francisco's Missiondistrict: Get Out Yuppie Scum. Bowman, 26, said he tried not to takethe message personally and made no plans to move.

Jackson, Williams head basketball Hall of Fame induction class of '07.(Sports) - The Virginian-Pilot (Norfolk, VA)

SPRINGFIELD, Mass. [bar] Phil Jackson learned to coach from Red Holzman and practiced the craft on superstars like Michael Jordan, Shaquille O'Neal and Kobe Bryant.

'I've had people say that I'm the luckiest coach that's ever been in the NBA. I probably have to agree with that,' Jackson said Friday at the Basketball Hall of Fame's induction weekend. 'I've been in the right spots at the right time.'

Jackson was inducted into the Springfield shrine Friday night with North Carolina coach Roy Williams; the 1966 NCAA champion Texas Western team; four-time WNBA championship coach Van Chancellor, the longtime women's coach at Mississippi recently hired by LSU; former NBA referee Mendy Rudolph and international coaches Pedro Ferrandiz of Spain and Mirko Novosel of Yugoslavia.

baseball

Pirates send GM Littlefield packing

PITTSBURGH [bar] Dave Littlefield, like nearly all executives, was judged on won-lost record - and the Pittsburgh Pirates' 442-581 record and .432 winning percentage in his six-plus seasons as general manager weren't nearly good enough.

Littlefield was fired Friday after the franchise showed negligible progress on the field and not nearly enough in its farm system. Director of player development Brian Graham will serve as the interim general manager.

IN OTHER BASEBALL NEWS

Ryan Jorgenson, a catcher for the Reds , was suspended for 50 games as the third player penalized this year under Major League Baseball's drug program.

pro football

suit by retired NFL players dismissed

SAN FRANCISCO [bar] A federal judge tossed out a lawsuit accusing the NFL players' union of inadequately representing 3,500 retired players, ruling the complaints of fraud and antitrust allegations had little merit.

One of the many reasons U.S. District Court Judge William Alsup said he dismissed the lawsuit was because none of the three retired players who sued the NFL Players Association earlier this year could show they signed any formal marketing agreements with the union in the past four years, the length of the statute of limitations.

college football

N.H. player faces murder charge

DURHAM, N.H. [bar] A New Hampshire football player charged with murder in California is expected to turn himself in by Monday, authorities in San Diego say.

San Diego Police Lt. Kevin Rooney said prosecutors and the lawyer defending Henri 'Hank' Hendricks were arranging his surrender to face charges that he was part of a gang that fatally beat a man in May. Before he was suspended Friday, Hendricks, 21, was a backup quarterback at the University of New Hampshire.

IN OTHER NEWS

Selwyn Lymon, Purdue wide receiver, faces team discipline after being charged with two other players in connection with a nightclub fight during which he was stabbed in the chest.

gymnastics

American Johnson wins all-around

STUTTGART, Germany [bar] First, a national champion. Now, a world champion. And everyone knows what's coming up next on Shawn Johnson's schedule.

America's new queen of gymnastics also proclaimed herself best in the world Friday, winning the all-around title with a bright smile and sky-high jumps - setting herself up as the woman to beat next year at the Beijing Olympics.

The 15-year-old Iowan scored 61.875 points to defeat Steliana Nistor of Romania by 1.25.

golf

Rookie Mcpherson shares LPGA lead

ROGERS, Ark. [bar] Rookie Kristy McPherson shot a 6-under 66 to share the early clubhouse lead at the rain-soaked LPGA NW Arkansas Championship. Play was suspended by darkness.

Katherine Hull and Teresa Lu were also tied for the lead at 6-under 66.

IN OTHER NEWS

Oliver Wilson completed a 6-under 65 in a delayed first round, then added a second-round 66 to take the halfway lead in the European Masters in Crans-Sur-Sierre, Switzerland.

basketball

Fever's Catchings to miss 6-9 months

INDIANAPOLIS [bar] Tamika Catchings could start rehabilitation on her injured foot in about six weeks.

Her complete recovery from a torn Achilles tendon that cost the Indiana Fever a chance at their first WNBA championship appearance will take a lot longer - six to nine months.

'It ended up being a little more serious than they thought it was at first,' Catchings said .

IN OTHER NEWS

Darko Milicic, the Memphis Grizzlies center, was fined nearly $14,000 by FIBA for a profanity-laced tirade at referees following Serbia's defeat at the European basketball championship.

Oklahoma State lost its only experienced frontcourt player when Kenny Cooper decided to transfer.

Samuel Dalembert, the Philadelphia 76ers center, has a stress fracture in his left foot but is expected to participate when the team opens training camp in early October.

CAPTION(S):

Downtown San Francisco rebuffs yuppie invasion - The Sunday Herald

They are young, successful, fun-loving professionals who like tolive in lofts, wear baseball caps and drive sport utility vehicles -and they are scaring the hell out of old-time San Franciscans.

Buoyed by the bullish stock market and the ongoing Silicon Valleyboom, yuppies are moving to the Bay Area in droves, looking for thegood life. The onslaught is raising fears that San Francisco's lastworking-class neighbourhoods are about to disappear beneath a tidalwave of trendy bars and bistros.

The final battleground, some say, is the Mission district, agritty, heavily Latino neighbourhood on the east side of town thatuntil a few years ago made headlines mostly for the drug deals andgang wars going down on its streets.

For all its problems, the Mission, as it is called here, has longbeen regarded as a vibrant, colorful neighborhood that helped SanFrancisco preserve its credentials as a multicultural,socioeconomically diverse community.

But three years ago, yuppies discovered it - first as a placewhere a handful of hip bars and restaurants had opened, then as aspot to buy crumbling Victorian dwellings and new lofts at bargainprices.

'It began to get especially cute around 1997,' said Kevin Keating,a Mission resident for 11 years. 'I was sitting in a cafe right inthe heart of the Mission and I saw these cell phone types around mewearing those kind of stockbroker shirts like Michael Douglas in WallStreet - you know, with the white collar and the blue and whitestripes? I'm thinking: 'This is the Mission. It is supposed to be atough, working-class neighborhood.' I was appalled.'

The trouble with yuppies, Keating said, 'is that they come in anddisplace working-class and poor people by offering landlords moremoney'. Since more affluent people have discovered the Mission, hesaid, 'there has been a massive wave of owner move-in evictions'.

In May, police arrested Keating and raided his home, saying theybelieve he is the founder of the Yuppie Eradication Project, a tinygroup of anarchists who began plastering the Mission with posters sixmonths ago, calling on residents to fight the yuppie influx.

Keating was quickly released, and no charges have been filedagainst him. But police say their investigation continues.

Keating will not say whether he founded the Yuppie EradicationProject or had anything to do with the posters. But he does describehimself as an anarchist dedicated to 'eliminating state governmentsand wage labour'.

Depending on whom you talk to, the Yuppie Eradication Project haseither given a violent cast or a humorous one to the increasinglyurgent, citywide debate over gentrification.

The anti-yuppie fliers named four local bars and restaurants thatshould be bombed, and urged residents to spray-paint graffiti onlofts and scratch the paint of cars they suspected belonged toyuppies. The fliers were signed: Nestor Makhno, a Ukrainiananarchist who fought czarism and Bolshevism and killed Russianlandlords during the Russian civil war.

No businesses have been blown up in the Mission district, and nolandlords have been killed. But police said they do have reports ofcars being scratched with keys and loft buildings being spray-paintedwith slogans such as Yuppies Go Home.

Robert Cort Jr was a specific target of some of the fliers. Hisparents, who own several San Francisco properties, bought a house inthe Mission district in 1996 and transferred ownership to him. Aftera court fight, he evicted the tenants in 1997 under a city law thatallows owners to evict tenants and replace them with family members.Cort has yet to move in, but found his name and address listed in theYuppie Eradication Project fliers.

'I get graffiti on my house,' Cort said. 'If they were saying:'Go home gays, blacks or Jews,' it wouldn't be tolerated in thiscity.'

Still, some say the Yuppie Eradication Project has trained aspotlight on a serious problem.

'The project is the far, extreme end of a definite fear about thede-Latinisation of the neighbourhood,' said Oscar Wolters-Duran,program director of St John's Urban Institute in the Missiondistrict. 'You have a neighbourhood here that is vibrant,affordable, with a very definite cultural identity. Yuppies andgentrification can definitely destroy the cultural cohesion of theneighbourhood.'

City officials confirm that San Francisco is in the midst of ahousing crisis, created by a population explosion fueled by theSilicon Valley boom and the emergence of the high-paying multimediaindustry here. What is happening in the Mission district, they say,is just a dramatic manifestation of the pressures felt all over town.

Between 1991 and 1998, said Amit Ghosh, chief of comprehensiveplanning for the city, 70,000 people moved into the city, swellingits population to nearly 800,000.

'We never expected this kind of growth,' Ghosh said. ''Ourvacancy rate is less than 1%.'

For years, San Francisco has had some of the priciest real estateof any major US city. Between 1997 and 1998, the median price for athree-bedroom house rose 16%, from $311,240 (#200,800) to $361,410.It is expected to increase by more than that this year, and there aredramatic accounts in the local press of bidding wars over houses.Rents have also increased dramatically, as has the pace of evictionsby owners who say they are moving in.

With most residential neighbourhoods built up, developers haveturned to areas like the Mission district, with mixed residential-industrial zoning, to build housing.

Lofts that will cost $300,000 to $500,000 are going up just ablock away from the corner of Mission and 16th streets, a favoritespot for addicts to hang out and score heroin.

Voters are so spooked by the threat of gentrification that lastNovember they approved a tightening of city restrictions on ownermove-in evictions, prohibiting owners from removing the elderly,disabled or terminally ill. More recently, the city's planningcommission imposed a moratorium on the building of lofts inindustrial zones.

Low-income housing activists would like to see lofts permanentlybanned, arguing that they cater for the affluent and are pushing outindustry and blue-collar jobs.

Intended to provide low-cost housing alternatives for artists whowant to live in their studios, lofts have become the symbol of howyuppies are moving into every corner of San Francisco.

Loft developers 'are bottom feeders', said Sue Hestor, a low-income housing activist. 'They build in some of the strangest places- right up against a scrap metal farm, for instance.'

Once young professionals move in, Hestor said, they do two things- drive up the price of surrounding property and complain about theirnoisy, smelly neighbours.

San Francisco takes step toward nation's most far-reaching outdoor smoking ban - AP Worldstream

LISA LEFF, Associated Press Writer
AP Worldstream
01-27-2005
Dateline: SAN FRANCISCO
From the zoo to Golden Gate Park to the stadium where the 49ers play football, smokers in this tourism-driven city will soon find fewer outdoor places to indulge their habits.

An expansive smoking ban approved by San Francisco supervisors Tuesday prohibits lighting up in all city-owned parks, public plazas and sports facilities except golf courses.

At least 11 other California cities and a handful of jurisdictions in other states have enacted curbs on outdoor tobacco use, but anti-smoking advocates say none is as far-reaching.

'San Francisco has been a pioneer in tobacco control for decades and continues to be a pioneer with this law,' said Bronson Frick, associate director of Americans for Nonsmokers' Rights. 'No other city has enacted a law even close to what San Francisco is in terms of covering outdoor places.'

San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom is expected to sign the law, which would take effect July 1, said an aide to Supervisor Michela Alioto-Pier, the law's sponsor.

According to the ordinance, the prohibition applies to 'any unenclosed area' that is open to the public and under city jurisdiction. That includes any 'park, square, garden, sport or playing field other than a golf course, recreational pier or other property used for recreational purposes.'

'Because we do have quite a few parks and quite a few public areas, this could be more far-reaching than people have thought about,' said Karen Licavoli, director of tobacco control programs for the American Lung Association of San Francisco and San Mateo Counties.

City-owned golf courses were specifically exempted because Alioto-Pier said discarded cigarette butts were not as much of an environmental or health hazard on greens with dedicated groundskeepers. She said she was also concerned that a smoking ban would drive golfers and their fees away from public courses to private facilities.

People caught smoking in any of the places where the new law applies can be fined up to US$100 (euro77) on first offense, US$200 (euro154) for a second violation within the same year and US$500 (euro384) for each additional violation.

Smokers and their allies were unsurprisingly fired up about the new law Wednesday. Michael Sayrafi, whose father owns a tobacco store called Smoke on Polk, called it 'ridiculous.'

'Are we still living in the land of the free? It's insane,' Sayrafi said. 'They have already taken bars away from smokers. Next they are going to say you can't smoke on the street.'

Some oceanfront communities in Delaware and Florida have followed California's lead in making beaches smoke-free zones. But Frick said only a third of Americans live in communities where smoking is off-limits in restaurants, and only a quarter in places with smoke-free bars.

Copyright 2005, AP News All Rights Reserved

San Francisco kids' soccer league tells parents to button their lips.(Knight Ridder Newspapers) - Knight Ridder/Tribune News Service

SAN FRANCISCO _ San Francisco parents who shout and cheer at their kids' soccer games are going to have to put a sock in it Saturday.

Officials of the San Francisco Vikings League _ 120 teams of children in kindergarten through eighth grades _ told parents they can't cheer, shout or even talk to players during games Saturday. They may only stand quietly and clap. Even the coaches of children older than 10 cannot shout directions to their players.

The Vikings may be one of the only leagues in the area to button adults' lips, but a smattering of leagues across the country are giving it a shot. It's just one new tool for reminding folks that youth sports are as much about good sportsmanship as athletic skills.

'I think we need to remember that this is about little children playing soccer,' said Dana Ketchum, league president. 'We aren't here for winning, but to let kids have fun and get exercise and learn how to be good sports.'

It's the league's second annual Silent Saturday, a one-day muting of adults that is intended to curb the trend toward overzealous coaches and parents who jeer opponents and shout at referees.

'Parents do have a lot of value,' said Tina Seyer, a program director at Stanford University's Positive Coaching Alliance. 'It's sad to think the only positive thing is to say nothing.'

Most leagues have tried other tactics. The South San Jose Youth Soccer League is one of many that require parents to sign 'codes of conduct' pledges promising to behave properly or be banned from games. New Jersey this year went so far as to pass a law allowing local officials to bar misbehaving adults from attending games.

The Palo Alto region of the American Youth Soccer Organization has a section on its Web site (www.ayso26.org) that offers such advice on conduct as 'Cheer positively for the things you like' and 'Never put down the other team or any of the players on either team.'

Other leagues, like the Rockridge Soccer Club, have made attendance by some of a team's adults at Stanford's coaching workshops a requirement for joining. What do they learn?

'We try to teach targeted cheering, like thinking of what to cheer for, and not just the easy things like getting a goal or a nice save,' said Seyer, adding that while a Silent Saturday can be a relief to children and referees, it's important for parents and coaches to learn what to say and do on the sidelines.

The alliance, which within four years grew to a nationwide organization with offices in five cities, held 329 workshops last year attended by about 16,000 coaches, parents and youth sports leaders.

Though they have not tallied statistics, the National Alliance for Youth Sports received about three times as many reports of misbehaving adults as it did 10 years ago, said alliance president Fred Engh.

It logged 12 violent incidents in the United States from January to July. In the most widely publicized case, Thomas Junta of Boston was convicted in January of killing another dad, Michael Costin, in a fight over how Costin was coaching during youth hockey practice.

Nothing nearly that dramatic has happened in San Francisco, but Ketchum said a small number of parents habitually shout orders to their children, berate players on opposing teams or threaten referees. Last year, one father walked onto the field shaking a big stick at a referee who made an unfavorable call, Ketchum said. Two years ago, a father began hitting a player he claimed had hurt his child.

Some parents see Silent Saturday as a one-day punishment everyone must endure for the sins of a few. But most take it in stride, even humor. Some parents last year zipped their lips with masking tape. Others sucked on lollipops to keep quiet.

'I thought it was not natural to stand there in silence,' said Stacey Pacheco, mother of a fifth-grade girl who brought a big bag of lollipops for parents at the game. 'It felt really weird not to cheer the team on. Sucking on a lollipop at 8:30 in the morning didn't feel natural either.'

It didn't help that her daughter, Haley, scored a big goal, she said. 'I think I bit the lollipop.'

The silent game lacked the usual excitement, she added, and parents were picking their nails or other things to put their energy somewhere. Some children missed the cheers, too.

'If I hear the parents cheering that a player's going to get a goal against me, it makes me steal the ball faster,' said Robhy Bustami, a 10-year-old who plays defense. 'It actually helps me.'

Robhy's coach, Keith Kuwatani, said the Silent Saturday events are reflective of the few and not the many.

'We look at them and go, `God they shouldn't be here,' ' he said. 'But it's painful for our parents who just want to root for their kids.'

It was the Vikings' coaches who voted to start the day of silence.

'One coach said he wanted to see how the kids would play if he wasn't shouting directions,' Ketchum said, but he wouldn't try it because some other coaches were shouting all kinds of things and he didn't want to put his team at a disadvantage.

'It was after that we decided maybe everyone should just be quiet and let the kids play.'

___

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