The news is out: San Francisco is having a rebirth. This isn't the same town you knew even five years ago. Ever since the famed dot-com boom and bust, a sense of creative rediscovery has taken over the scene; the crop of baby millionaires has been replaced by a talented, diverse new crew of insiders intent on reclaiming the city as their own.
The best way to get to know any city is to run with the locals. So for a firsthand look at the goings-on, we turned to four experts in fields for which San Francisco is known--people who make a point of scouting for hidden treasures and offbeat finds. There's the four-star French chef who prowls through Chinatown for culinary inspiration; the Internet CEO who's perfected the art of boutique shopping, high and low; the fitness entrepreneur who serves up killer workouts with majestic views; and the jazz headliner with his finger on the cultural pulse. From an early-morning run along the waterfront to a late-night jam session at a dive bar, we found an exhilarating mix of surprises and familiar favorites. Exploring San Francisco through their eyes makes it impossible not to give in to the spell of one of the world's most beloved cities.
The chef
Laurent Manrique first fell in love with San Francisco at the Saturday farmers' market on the Embarcadero. It was spring, and the French native--who was working at a prestigious New York restaurant--was visiting the city for the first time. 'I saw all these young parents with their kids, all the vegetables and fruits,' he recalls. 'I thought, Wow, the people in this town really love to eat.'
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As executive chef of the well-regarded Aqua in the Financial District, Manrique turns his culinary expertise to seafood, transforming a humble John Dory fillet into a work of art. It's quite a departure from his origins in Gascony, a landlocked region of foie gras and Armagnac, but Manrique enjoys confounding expectations. A devout Buddhist with an eye for the finer things in life, he sports a modest prayer string on his wrist next to pink-and-orange Pucci cufflinks; he's also at home in Chinatown's raucous, colorful food markets, from which he derives inspiration. 'Walking to work through Chinatown each morning is like instant vitality,' he says.
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Like many chefs, he takes his own meals on the fly at off-hours--dim sum at 10 a.m., or a 3 p.m. lunch at his favorite trattoria on Belden Place. And instead of heading home at the end of a busy night, Manrique (along with chef buddies Roland Passot and Gerald Hirigoyen) is often spotted after-hours at the newest nightclubs and bars. 'I need to see what's going on out there,' he says. 'You cannot be a great restaurateur in San Francisco if you aren't in touch with what people are doing.'
INFO: Aqua ($$$$; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily; 252 California St.; 415/956-9662)
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Laurent Manrique's picks
Cafe de la Presse. Euro visitors and locals alike start the day with a cappuccino and first-rate people-watching at the warm-toned bistro across from the Chinatown Gate. Manrique consulted on the menu, which includes the superlative eggs en meurette (poached and served on toasted country bread). $$$; breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 352 Grant Ave.; 415/398-2680.
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Cafe Tiramisu. Tucked into romantic Belden Place (a pedestrian-only alley lined with outdoor tables in the Financial District), the traditional Italian restaurant is Manrique's pick for a late lunch. At peak hours, the street is swarmed; flirtatious waiters abound. $$; lunch and dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat. 28 Belden Place; 415/421-7044.
Chinatown markets. The swirl of scents and flavors along with bins of unfamiliar ingredients make Chinatown's markets one of Manrique's favorite sources of inspiration. 'They're great places for spices,' he says. Try Ho Kee Market (1251 Stockton St.; 415/837-1489); New Luen Sing Fish Market (1207 Stockton; 415/989-4336); and Sun Wah Trading Co. (1211 Stockton; 415/788-7968).
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Heart of the City Farmers' Market. The Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market on the Embarcadero is one of S.F.'s main attractions, especially on Saturday mornings. But foodies in the know get their produce at this much humbler market near the Civic Center, without the crowds and inflated prices but with the same quality. 7-5:30 Wed and 7-5 Sun. United Nations Plaza, on Market St. between Seventh St. and Eighth St.
Jardiniere. 'This was my first meal in S.F.,' Manrique remembers. Despite the opening of a second eatery (Mijita, the Ferry Building's haute taqueria) and her recent rise to Iron Chef celebrity status, owner Traci Des Jardins's laser focus hasn't wavered. The special-occasion classic has yet to disappoint. $$$$; dinner daily. 300 Grove St.; 415/861-5555.
Lychee Gardens. Packed with Chinatown market workers on their morning break. 'This was recommended to me by a Chinese busboy at my restaurant,' Manrique says, tearing with relish into a char siu bow (barbecued pork bun). 'Everyone goes to Yank Sing for dim sum, but this one's the best.' $; dim sum 9-3 Mon-Fri, 8-3 Sat-Sun; dinner 3-9:15 daily. 1416 Powell St.; 415/397-2290.
Sam's Grill and Seafood Restaurant. Clubby, old-fashioned hangout with a boys-only feel; it's Manrique's favorite place for a Manhattan, his cocktail of choice. $$$; lunch and dinner Mon-Fri. 374 Bush St.; 415/421-0594.
The shopper
Gina Pell is easily the town's most glamorous Internet executive. As CEO and founder of Splendora--an online shopping and lifestyle guide to San Francisco, New York, and L.A.--she's the ultimate resource for finding a perfect hostess gift or distinctive home accessory. With wide-ranging tastes, she's as adept at scoring inexpensive knick-knacks for a dinner party as she is at unearthing an heirloom set of Victorian sterling forks. 'I like originality, so I haunt small shops, consignment stores, and five-and-dimes,' she says.
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Currently, Pell's obsessions revolve around furnishing a nursery for her first child, due in June. Instead of hitting the usual Union Square department stores, she heads to Clement Street, a bustling multicultural strip in the Inner Richmond with some of the city's tastiest cheap eats--from Burmese tea-leaf salad to cabbage-stuffed piroshki. 'Clement Street is the real deal,' Pell says. 'It's one of the best places in town for a little adventure.' It's also a neighborhood of unexpected shopping finds, such as a family-run fabric store spilling over with bolts of luscious material.
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Afterward, Pell does a circuit of Hayes Valley--formerly a down-and-out enclave in the shadow of the Central Freeway, now a full-fledged boutique paradise. It's almost impossible to wander the main strip from Franklin Street to Laguna Street without making a purchase, and even a discriminating shopper such as Pell isn't immune. But despite all the rarefied wares on display, she's most captivated by a $22 wooden pig on wheels at the whimsical Scandinavian Details. 'Mixing high and low takes a little more creativity,' she says, 'but it's a lot more fun.'
INFO: Splendora (www.splendora.com)
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Gina Pell's picks
ON CLEMENT STREET
Fleur't. Floral studio and home-accessories boutique with a chic European sensibility (as in minimalist moss arrangements and bistro chairs). Closed Sun-Mon. 15 Clement St.; 415/751-2747.
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Green Apple Books. Still going strong after almost four decades, the cult emporium packed with new and used books can command an entire day of browsing. The vintage-cookbooks section is excellent. 506 Clement; 415/387-2272.
Kamei Household Wares. A mecca for inexpensive kitchen supplies, Asian dinnerware, and gadgets. 'This place is great to visit right before a dinner party--everything's so reasonably priced, you can really spruce up your table,' Pell says, grabbing a $3.75 jade green miniature tray for hors d'oeuvres. 547 Clement; 415/933-8508.
Period George. Crammed full of merchandise that runs the gamut from museum-quality (a 1780s potpourri jar from France) to kitsch (goofy bird vases from the 1920s and '30s). Owner Donald Gibson goes on worldwide scavenging trips. 'We take old, fussy things and put them in an edgy environment,' he says. 7 Clement; 415/752-1900.
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Satin Moon Fabrics. Run by two sisters, the store isn't cheap--but their decorator and upholstery selections are outstanding. With her nursery in mind, Pell instantly gravitates to a roll of 1940s-inspired material called Alphabet Soup. 32 Clement; 415/668-1623.
IN HAYES VALLEY
Alabaster. The exquisite store comprises four rooms and a Balinese courtyard garden. 'This feels like Paris,' Pell says, practically cooing over the vintage glassware, antique globes, and esoteric fragrances. Not for budget shoppers--a set of tortoiseshell Lucite stacking tables is $2,100--but it's catnip for refined design sensibilities. 597 Hayes St.; 415/558-0482.
Azalea Boutique & Z Beauty Lounge. The truly genius draw of this edgy men's and women's clothing boutique is the manicure and pedicure station in back--a boon for weary shoppers. 411 Hayes; 415/861-9888.
Propeller. Streamlined designer furnishings share space with irreverent objects of fun--purses made out of pull tabs from aluminum cans and the hilarious Dial O for Old School, a bulky pink telephone earpiece meant to be attached to your slimmest Motorola Razr. 555 Hayes; 415/701-7767.
Scandinavian Details. All the greatest hits--Marimekko, littala, etc.--combined with irresistibly chic and clever kiddie designs. 364 Hayes; 415/552-1100.
The fitness guru
At 5:45 on a brisk morning, before even the first streaks of light hit San Francisco Bay, Teresa Marchese leads a group of eight women in a series of heart-pounding sprints down a waterfront trail at Crissy Field. 'Come on, come on--I know you can do it!' she tells a panting newbie who falls short of her drill-sergeant pace, somehow managing to be cheerful and motivating but not the least bit obnoxious.
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Outdoor boot camps are the current fitness craze in San Francisco--no surprise in a city known for its beauty and athleticism. Marchese, who founded her Rock Solid Fitness program during law school, leads one of the best. Her female-only groups meet five mornings a week at the Marina District's Crissy Field (when they're not running Rocky-style drills up and down Pacific Heights' steep Lyon Street stairs). 'Sometimes we'll spot sea lions as we're lifting weights,' she says. For her one-on-one clients, she might bring gloves and shields for kickboxing under the cypress trees at Sutro Heights Park, or put them through a hard run in the sand at Ocean Beach--'but they don't like me too much after that.'
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Marchese seeks out the city's most scenic trails and incorporates them into her routines. On a hike with her husband, she stumbled across the labyrinth at Lands End--a surprise even to longtime S.F. residents. The natural drama of her surroundings is a motivator. 'You can work out on a cliff or run at the ocean's edge,' Marchese says. 'Even in the middle of this cosmopolitan city, you still find these places to be completely alone.'
INFO: Rock Solid Fitness ($55 per week, www.rocksolidsf.com or 415/759-1605)
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Teresa Marchese's picks
Bay to Breakers. A beloved annual tradition that melds athleticism with S.F. kookiness. The 12-kilometer footrace (held on the third Sunday in May) begins at the Embarcadero and ends at the Great Highway; serious runners take their marks along with costumed revelers pushing themed floats and illegal kegs. Marchese runs it every year with her group. May 21; $38 entry fee. www.baytobreakers.com or 415/359-2800.
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Crissy Field. Fringing the Marina District's waterfront, the 100-acre former military airfield is one of the city's premier fitness playgrounds. Marchese begins most of her early-morning boot camps here. The park is home to Sports Basement (610 Mason St.; 415/437-0100), a giant warehouse that's a good source for discounted outdoor gear and apparel. Entrance on Marina Blvd. west of Baker St.
Feel Real Organic Cafe. Good vibes resonate at this colorful vegan corner joint near Ocean Beach in the Outer Sunset. Reggae on vinyl, seashell mobiles, and leafy plants lend a lazy Caribbean air. After a workout, Marchese makes a beeline for the giant heart-shaped oatmeal cookie made with organic raisins, coconut, and sunflower seeds--a full brunch in itself. $$; breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tue--Sun. 4001 Judah St.; 415/504-7325.
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Labyrinth at Lands End. A secret to most locals, this meditative rock formation was built by artist Eduardo Aguilera on a bluff overlooking Mile Rock Beach and the Golden Gate Bridge. Visitors are apt to leave flowers or small mementos; any loose stones are thoughtfully rearranged. It's a peaceful walk to the labyrinth along the Coastal Trail from the Lands End parking lot. Above Mile Rock Beach; access via Coastal Trail, beginning near Point Lobos Ave. and 48th Ave.
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Lyon Street stairs. A popular Pacific Heights meeting spot and outdoor recreation area. 'The view is gorgeous first thing in the morning,' Marchese says. She puts her clients through a grueling series of runs and squats up the 288 steps, alternating with reps of weights. Lyon St. between Broadway and Green St.
Palace of Fine Arts. The Roman rotunda dazzled at its 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition debut. It's a common spot for picnicking families and group wedding photos; before the masses descend, Marchese warms up with early-morning stretches under the ornate dome. 3301 Lyon St.
Sutro Heights Park. Windswept cypress trees give way to views all the way down Ocean Beach at this former site of millionaire Adolph Sutro's 1880s mansion. There's a track-size trail and a rock staircase leading to an elevated plateau where Marchese likes to practice martial arts. Nearby, the Sutro Bath ruins are all that remain of Sutro's extravagant public bathhouse, which featured seven swimming pools, water slides, trapeze rings, and an amphitheater; tours are led by the National Park Service (415/561-4323). Geary Blvd. at 48th Ave.
The jazz musician
Marcus Shelby knows how to stand out in a crowd. Perhaps it's the natty straw fedora he wears to catch a Sunday-night gig at a Mission District dive bar. Or the dapper silhouette he cuts in the corner booth at a swank supper club in North Beach. Whatever the occasion, he's bound to be the most stylish guy in the room.
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A bassist and composer with his own band, the Marcus Shelby Jazz Orchestra, he's performed at multiple venues and events around the city; debuted an arrangement for the Oakland Ballet's tribute to Ella Fitzgerald; founded a music label, Noir Records; and served as artist-in-residence for the acclaimed Intersection for the Arts. 'I try to hit up the various jam sessions throughout the week,' he says. 'As a bandleader, you need to see who's out there.' When Shelby is spotted in the audience during a performance, he's likely to be called to the stage for a few songs.
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While some buffs still wax nostalgic about the city's 1940s and '50s jazz heyday, 'San Francisco's current scene is pretty healthy,' Shelby says. North Beach has the history and lush ambience; the Mission has the avant-garde acts. Like any scene, this jazz world has its regulars. During a Monday-night show at the legendary Enrico's, Shelby points out the 1965 mural of frolicking bohemians. 'See that tiny woman in the middle with the spit curl? Her name is Millie, and we'll be seeing her tonight.' By the time the eccentric Millie makes an appearance, the place feels less like a room full of strangers and more like a party of friends.
INFO: Visit www.marcusshelby.com for Marcus Shelby's performance schedule. The Marcus Shelby Jazz Orchestra's latest CD, Port Chicago, is available on Noir Records.
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Marcus Shelby's picks
Amnesia. Hot jazz of the '40s comes alive on the first Sunday of the month at this dim, red-walled Mission District dive. A boho crowd in pinstripes and leopard coats gets down on the tiny dance floor. Gaucho, a tribute to gypsy jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt, performs on Wednesdays. Cover charge varies. 853 Valencia St.; www.amnesiathebar.com or 415/970-0012.
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Cafe Royale. Located in the gentrifying stretch known as the TenderNob, this laid-back lounge hosts film screenings, open-mic poetry slams, and jazz. Shelby rehearses in the basement studio. 800 Post St.; www.caferoyale-sf.com or 415/441-4099.
Dalva. Candlelight, an excellent jukebox, and a cozy upstairs nook (open Fri-Sat nights) set this narrow little bar apart from the usual grimy Mission watering holes. 3121 16th St.; 415/252-7740.
Enrico's. Steeped in North Beach history, with a heated patio for surveying the sidewalk scene. On Monday nights, kittenish crooner Lavay Smith performs with a trio including jazz veteran Allen Smith on trumpet. $$$; lunch and dinner daily. 504 Broadway; 415/982-6223.
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Intersection for the Arts. Find theater, music, literary readings, and a gallery at this venue for alternative arts in the Mission. This month, the resident Campo Santo theater troupe debuts Haze (Thu-Sat Apr 13-29; from $9 Fri-Sat, no set fee Thu), a play featuring the work of local literary titan Dave Eggers, among others. 446 Valencia; www.theintersection.org, 415/626-2787, or 415/626-3311 (box office).
Jazz at Pearl's. Sultry diva Kim Nalley, who owns the North Beach supper club with her husband, is a throwback to a more glamorous era. Some Monday nights, she makes a guest appearance with the phenomenal Contemporary Jazz Orchestra; on occasional Tuesdays, she leads her own quintet. $; dinner daily. Two shows every night; cover charge from $10. 256 Columbus Ave.; www.jazzatpearls.com or 415/291-8255.
Red Poppy Art House. 'One of the coolest spots in town,' Shelby says of the intimate performance space, working studio, and gallery in the Mission. An artsy house-party vibe and acts from around the world make it feel like a discovery. 7:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Fri-Sat and by appointment. 2698 Folsom St.; www.redpoppyarthouse.org or 415/826-2402.
Tosca Cafe. Storied North Beach hangout, with the urban legends to prove it. Red vinyl booths and a checkered tile floor set the scene for after-hours celebrity shenanigans. Closed Mon. 242 Columbus; 415/986-9651.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS J. STORY
